Our Editor’s Take On This Year’s Australian Fashion Week
THE WEEK OF ALL WEEKS
By Kiri Johnston | 16th May 2025I noticed a distinct shift in the air at this year’s Australian Fashion Week. Presented by Shark Beauty and held at Carriageworks — the beating heart of Fashion Week year after year, with offsite shows dotted across Sydney. The week unfolded with less noise and more nuance. Instead of loud looks and louder lenses, the energy was grounded, intentional, and quietly self-assured. Street style felt more personal, oversized silhouettes, considered layers, tonal palettes, and the kind of effortlessness that comes from knowing exactly what works for you. On the runway, that same clarity carried through. The runways echoed a new kind of confidence, one that favours clarity over chaos and celebrates those brave enough to create with intention.
Carla Zampatti: ‘Ubiquity’ There’s something poetic about opening Australian Fashion Week with Carla Zampatti. The late icon’s namesake label delivered a 60-look spectacle titled Ubiquity, honouring six decades of timeless design. Sitting by the water as the Opera House glinted behind the runway, I felt that quiet sense of pride only fashion can evoke — when heritage, beauty, and purpose align. Silhouettes floated between sharp tailoring and fluid eveningwear, capturing the signature polish that defined Zampatti’s reign. Rather than lean too heavily on nostalgia, the collection looked forward — a modern evolution of the house codes that still feel relevant today. It was elegance without ego; a celebration of legacy that didn’t need to scream to be heard.
FDS The Innovators: ‘The Next Garde’ Backed by one of the most iconic views in the country, the Fashion Design Studio’s emerging cohort took to the runway at the Overseas Passenger Terminal with a point to prove — and prove it they did. The 2025 edition of The Innovators marked 25 years since the initiative began showcasing standout TAFE NSW graduates at AFW, and this year felt like a true passing of the torch. Presenting off-schedule and independently for the first time in over a decade, designers Shiva Yousefpour, Emily Hon, Eidan Ceilidh, and Daisy-Rose Cooper delivered collections laced with courage, concept, and culture. Each look embraced a different kind of innovation — from sustainable techniques and avant-garde silhouettes to textile experimentation and storytelling through form. The show was based on raw talent, unfiltered and unapologetic. This wasn’t just a showcase; it was the launch of The Next Garde, a bold new incubator program nurturing Australia’s fashion future. If this is where we’re headed, we’re in good hands.
The Frontier: Form, Fabrication & Craft A standout moment on this year’s schedule was The Frontier — not a traditional runway, but a conceptual curation of seven distinct designers presented as one unified vision. Courtney Zheng, Amy Lawrance, Paris Georgia, MATIN, Wynn Hamlyn, ESSE, and Common Hours each brought their own design language to the space, but what emerged was a cohesive exploration of form, fabrication, and finesse. The setting was minimalist, allowing materiality and construction to take the spotlight. O&M’s hair direction by John Pulitano and expressive beauty from Make Up For Ever elevated the looks without overpowering them — the perfect balance of edge and restraint. From belted maxi coats to reconstructed denim, 3D textures, sheer sequin slips, and ultra-mini tailoring, the presentation felt grounded in craft but pulsing with modern energy. This wasn’t about trend-chasing; it was a collective declaration that Australian fashion can be bold, quiet, sharp, and poetic — all at once.
Lee Mathews: Resort ‘26 Celebrating 25 years at Australian Fashion Week, Lee Mathews returned with a runway that felt like a long exhale. Resort ‘26 was a study in balance — archiving the past while embracing the now. The show opened in a muted palette of skin, stone, water, and light, allowing texture and silhouette to lead the narrative. Tailoring was softened with sheer slips, embroidery was hand-finished and detailed, and prints by artist Nina Walton echoed the rhythmic grace of the loom. Draped calico framed the runway like an artist’s canvas, while a soundtrack by René Aubry added movement and mood. Beauty was radiant, skin left dewy and sun-kissed by RATIONALE, with hair by Kevin Murphy kept airy and fresh. Lee Mathews has always championed longevity and artistry — this season felt like an embodiment of both, wrapped in soft textures and thoughtful design. It didn’t need to be loud, the work spoke volumes, and beautifully so.
Beare Park: Modern Femininity, Refined There’s a kind of elegance that doesn’t ask for attention — it simply commands it. Beare Park’s AFW presentation did exactly that. Held in a blacked-out space at Carriageworks, pierced only by a single stream of light and the sound of an original Gary Sinclair composition, the mood was pure modern sensuality. Gabriella Pereira’s 30-look collection explored the tension between softness and structure: sharply tailored coats, sheer lace slips, oversized blazers and silk dupion track shorts. Styled by Nichhia Wippell and adorned with Chopard’s Ice Cube and L’Heure du Diamant collections, the looks struck that elusive chord — powerful, but intimate. Burgundy, ecru, chocolate and charcoal created a quietly rich palette, while the styling felt meticulous yet entirely effortless. It was a show that didn’t just present clothes — it presented a woman. One who knows her worth, walks with clarity, and dresses like she doesn’t need to explain a thing.
Nagnata: ‘Return To Earth’ The energy shift was palpable the second Nagnata hit the runway. Movement 18 marked the next chapter for the brand — same core, different frequency. Elevated activewear took centre stage, layered with unexpected edge. Sculptural knits were styled one-shouldered, tees became mini dresses, and capris got a slick makeover. There were ribbed textures, denim mini skirts, wet-look hair, and exaggerated silver hoops. Faux fur coats, leather bucket bags and pouch accessories brought a textural playfulness, while Dominique Elissa brought her usual dose of cool to the runway. It was styled to perfection — tied-up knits, looped layers, oversized shades — every detail felt intentional, but not overthought. Still sporty. Still spirited. But now with a sharper silhouette and a distinctly grown-up twist. Nagnata has entered its confidence era.
Bianca Spender: ‘Deliquesce’ Presented in a glowing church in Ultimo, Bianca Spender’s Deliquesce unfolded like a quiet awakening. Fluid silks, diaphanous organza, asymmetric swim pieces and ethereal layers told a story of release — an emotional surrender to softness, structure and self. The show invited reflection — and I caught myself genuinely pausing to ask: what am I holding on to, and what am I finally ready to let go? Hair by John Pulitano mirrored the clothes’ liquid ease — wet, sculptural, and precise. From sheer separates to draped tailoring, the silhouettes whispered freedom. Polka dots danced across diaphanous fabrics, while expressive shoulder lines and plunging gowns gave the collection its quiet drama. A moment of catharsis disguised as a runway show. You didn’t just watch Deliquesce — you felt it move through you.
Alix Higgins: ‘The Needle’ Alix Higgins doesn’t design for the faint of heart. The Needle was an explosive mix of art, activism, and unapologetic style. Models stomped the runway in mesh halters, sheer layers, and face-painted phrases — each look part fashion, part manifesto. Hair by O&M was intentionally dishevelled, braided and wild, capturing the rawness of the message. There were crowns, feathers, fishnet overlays, silver jewellery and provocative prints layered over exposed silhouettes. Every piece demanded attention, every detail delivered a statement. It wasn’t just wearable art — it was wearable rebellion. Alix Higgins doesn’t just follow trends. He carves out new ones with a silver-streaked needle and a voice that refuses to be quiet.
Ngali: Storytelling in Motion At Ngali, the runway became a living canvas. Models glided through softly lit space, draped in flowing silks, flowing silks, eucalyptus wafting through the air. The scent caught me off guard in the best way, grounding, gentle, impossible to ignore. Founder Denni Francisco’s work has always honoured Indigenous storytelling — and this season felt even more layered. Beautifully styled, low ponies and bare faces allowed the garments to do the talking: prints that referenced Country, patterns rich in symbolism, and shapes that echoed the land. A standout look paired a scarf-like neckpiece with a flowing dress and matching trousers — styled with toe sandals, it was effortless and deeply grounded. Ngali is more than a fashion label — it’s a mission stitched into fabric, and this season was another powerful chapter.
Karla Špetić: ‘AERIS’ Before a single model walked, guests at Karla Špetić’s AERIS were guided through a breathwork session. And just like that, the energy shifted. Rooted in healing and spiritual clarity, this collection was a meditation in motion. Ethereal lace, trompe-l’oeil denim, sheer georgette, and layered ombré tones moved in harmony across the runway, set to a three-part soundscape that deepened the experience. Shades unfolded from white and stone to cosmic black, echoing a journey inward — subtle, powerful, and deeply considered. Hair was softly textured, enhanced with J’adore extensions, and skin left glowing thanks to Thrive Tallow and INIKA Organic. Every detail aligned with intention. Karla doesn’t just design clothes. She designs energy. AERIS was a beautiful reminder that even the lightest touch can leave the deepest impression.
macgraw: ‘Bloodstream’ Dark, romantic, and dripping in symbolism, Bloodstream by macgraw felt like fashion’s version of a gothic fairytale. Sheer gowns, sharply tailored suits, and abbreviated hemlines told the story of an anti-bride — unbound by tradition, wrapped in lace, velvet, and just enough red to pierce the dream. Set against a 19th-century fig tree in a cemetery, and later projected onto the brand’s Paddington atelier, blurring the lines between the physical and the spiritual. Hair by Keiren Street featured dramatic plaits, while makeup by Cat Smith conjured lived-in smokey eyes and ethereal skin. It was eerie, decadent, and quietly revolutionary — one of the most unexpected highlights of the week. A nod to ancestry, defiance, and the divine femininity that walks the line between light and shadow.
Hansen & Gretel: ‘Aura’ If energy had a colour, Aura by Hansen & Gretel painted it in sheer silks and sun-washed tones. Inspired by the movement of the ocean and the frequency of feeling, the runway pulsed with fluid tailoring, beaded embellishments, and prints that mirrored aura readings and wave patterns. Styled by Emma Kalfus, the looks oscillated between surf nostalgia and modern femininity — raw-edged lace, floaty dresses, and powerfully draped shapes. Hair by Di Gorgievski was sexed-up Woodstock waves, while beauty by MCo Beauty was soft, radiant, and glowing from within. The message was clear: femininity doesn’t have to be loud to be felt. Sometimes, all it takes is a shift in energy — and Aura was absolutely magnetic.
Nicol & Ford: ‘Parrhesia’ Closing the week on a high note — or more accurately, a gut punch of poetic power — Nicol & Ford’s Parrhesia was less a fashion show, more a theatrical reckoning. Set in Newtown’s The Vanguard, the designers paid tribute to queer history with garments that spoke of resistance, lineage, and love. Feathered raffia skirts, screen-printed film stills, and custom-dyed latex gowns unfolded in two acts: first romantic, then raw. Cast with members of their own community and backed by a haunting score, the presentation blurred past and present. Every look was built with intention. Every moment felt like a reckoning. And when Janet Anderson walked out in a second-skin latex finale, the crowd erupted — not just in applause, but in solidarity. Nicol & Ford don’t just make clothes — they make space. And in doing so, they’re rewriting the rules.
New Generation: The Future, Front and Centre If the established designers brought polish, New Gen brought pure creative heat. This year’s emerging lineup — Miimi + Jiinda, Haluminous, Permanent Vacation, Buluuy Mirrii, and Boteh — proved the next wave of Australian fashion is equal parts fearless and refined. Each collection carved out its own point of view: from Miimi + Jiinda’s powerful expressions of Indigenous storytelling, to Permanent Vacation’s ultra-wearable minimalism, and Haluminous’ high-gloss futurism. There was something electric in the air — raw energy, honest perspective, and the kind of fresh vision that reminds you why fashion matters. These weren’t just brands to watch. They were brands ready to lead. And the industry was definitely paying attention.
From quiet confidence to full-throttle expression, AFW25 reminded us of the power fashion holds when it’s not just about clothes — but craft, culture, and connection. This year felt personal. For me — and, I imagine, for many — it reignited that deep sense of why fashion matters: not for spectacle, but for soul. Designers across the board created with clarity — soft rebellion, sharp tailoring, bold storytelling stitched into every seam. This wasn’t about chasing trends or competing for attention. It was about vision. Voice. And the kind of originality that doesn’t just leave an impression — it leaves a mark. From emerging names to legacy labels, what stood out most was the strength in perspective — a collective of designers not just contributing to the global conversation, but redefining it on their own terms. If this season proved anything, it’s this: Australian fashion isn’t just leading — it’s arriving. And the world’s watching.
