I Did The Ha Giang Loop: Is It Overhyped Or Worth It?
Passenger princess
By Natalie McGowan | 28th January 2026I’m sitting on the back of a motorbike in rural Northern Vietnam, my head slightly sore from one too many happy waters the night before. I’m halfway through the three-night, four-day Ha Giang Loop – an experience I’ve been told, repeatedly, would be the best decision I’d ever make – and I’m finally here to see what all the fuss is about.
I’m not exaggerating when I say that before I even stepped off my sleeper bus in Ha Giang, at least ten different people had told me I had to do the loop.
I first heard about it in 2024 when my friend came back raving about her loop experience. When a second friend returned from her Vietnam trip saying her trip highlight was the loop and a waiter at a restaurant I was dining at told me about his loop experience, my curiosity was officially piqued.
Then, my all-knowing TikTok algorithm caught wind of my interest and, soon enough, the Ha Giang Loop had infiltrated my doom scrolls too. It quickly became apparent that this was something I needed to do and onto the mental bucket list it went.
Starting in late December, a group of girlfriends and I backpacked through Sri Lanka. Every time it came up that I was heading to Vietnam next, the follow-up question was always the same: “Are you doing the loop?” When I said yes, the response was some variation of “I did it [X amount of time ago] with [X tour group] – you’re going to have the best time.” To say my expectations were high would be an understatement. By this point, I was fully convinced it would be one of the most monumental experiences of my life.
What is the Ha Giang Loop?
For those unfamiliar, Ha Giang is a far-north province in Vietnam and the Ha Giang Loop is an approximately 350km route winding through the region’s scenic roads, mountains, and villages. You can absolutely hire a motorbike to ride the loop yourself if you’re experienced, but most opt to do it with easy riders through a hostel tour company, of which there are many.
After lots and lots of research, I, along with the two friends I was doing the loop with, decided on Flipside Adventures. A happy medium between the large-group, party-heavy companies that I’d been recommended like Mama’s and Jasmine (I know people who had a great time with those groups, it just wasn’t the vibe we were after) and the more intimate-sized private tours, we booked our spots on a two-night, three-day expedition and went on our way.
The prep
Travelling from Singapore and Sri Lanka with only a carry-on, it became quickly apparent that the bikinis, thongs, and shorts that had served us so well in the heat were not going to cut it once my friend and I touched down in Hanoi. It was a mildly cool day, but the people we had spoken to, including the second friend who was joining us (who had just completed his own self-guided motorbike tour of Cao Bằng – another rural Northern region), had warned us that it gets cold in the mountains.
After checking in, we beelined straight to Hanoi’s Old Quarter to stock up on warmer clothes, with an obligatory banh mi stop along the way. This is where you’ll find street after street selling everything from silk to shoes, but what we were after were the countless shops selling more or less the same thing: knock-off North Face, Patagonia, and Arc’teryx gear. From backpacks to windbreakers, we found pretty much everything we needed for the next few days.
Days 0-1
We hopped on a 9am VIP sleeper bus to Ha Giang, which took about six hours, with toilet and snack breaks along the way. If you’re debating whether the extra $10 for VIP is worth it, it is. Fully reclined beds, curtains, blankets. No regrets.
After being dropped at the main depot, we were shuffled into a smaller van that took us to Flipside’s hostel. Recently refurbished, we opted for a three-person private room (which we chose each night on the loop as well) instead of a dorm – a godsend after weeks of shared rooms in Sri Lanka. It was easily the best accommodation of the trip: spacious, comfortable, beautiful tiling, river views, a hot tub, fireplace, pool, the works.
This first night was pretty relaxed; we met and hung out with the other travellers who would be doing the loop with us, had a family dinner, got our first taste of the famous happy water, and chilled by the fire and hot tub with some drinks.
The next morning, we were up at 7.30am for breakfast and a briefing before packing the bags we’d be taking on the loop and leaving our main luggage in storage. We were split into smaller riding groups, met our easy riders, got fitted for helmets, strapped our bags onto the bikes, and took off.
To be honest, after about an hour of riding, I started to question whether this was going to be the incredible experience that it was sold to me as. The views were nice and it’s fun to be on the back of a bike taking it all in, but at this point, I was slightly sceptical. But alas, onwards we went.
Throughout the loop, we stopped every 50 minutes or so for coffees (side note: coffee in Vietnam is a revelation. Salt coffee, egg coffee, coconut coffee…drool), snacks, toilet breaks, and to soak up the views. Eventually, we stopped for lunch, then found an icy waterfall to swim in for those willing to brave the cold. My scepticism began to wane after lunch, when we rode through a small village with the afternoon sun shining down on us and children out on the streets waving us by. With my earphones in, it felt cinematic.
It was a shorter riding day compared to what was to come, and we rolled into our homestay just before sunset, alongside the two other Flipside groups doing the loop at the same time. Perched high up the mountain, the homestay overlooked a village below, encased by mountains. Our private cabin was simple and cosy, with insanely beautiful views that were annoyingly impossible to capture on camera in all its glory.
We got settled and hung out in the communal areas until dinner time, which was when the real fun started.
All the groups sat down with their easy riders to a generous spread of Vietnamese dishes, and the happy water appeared almost immediately… and then never really stopped. There’s a popular Vietnamese drinking chant that’s shouted before practically every shot of happy water, and after just one night on the loop, you’ll know it by heart and probably for the rest of your life.
The only other thing I will say about this night is: you might not share a language with your easy rider, but on the Ha Giang Loop, it doesn’t matter. Between the endless corn wine, a few beers, and lots of karaoke, a bond forms quickly.
Days 2-3
The day started with Panadol and noodle soup at 7.30am, before we were back on the bikes and on the road again. By this point, the routine was familiar, but the scenery somehow kept getting better.
Days two and three were longer in terms of time spent riding, and our bodies were beginning to feel it – a bit sore, stiff, but nothing unmanageable. Luckily, breaks were regular and were perfect for stretching out legs and playing impromptu games of foot badminton.
We rode along stretches close to the China border, with endless mountain ranges surrounding us. We passed through sweeping valleys, cornfields, lush mountain roads, and limestone peaks as the landscape shifted constantly. It became a genuine pleasure to wake up each morning knowing my only job was to sit on the back of a bike and take it all in.
On the second night, we stayed in a district called Dong Van. After arriving at our second homestay and having some dinner and drinks, we wandered into town to explore the lively night market before ending up at a pub with the group and some easy riders for a game of pool.
On day three, we stopped to pick up groceries and a chicken to give to a local family in need. Vietnam is home to many ethnic groups, including the H’mong, and being invited into their home and learning about their life and struggles (despite the language barrier) was a really moving experience, and one that I’m glad Flipside prioritises.
Later that afternoon, riding through a mountain range with a blazing sunset overhead, I distinctly remember thinking to myself that I was not ready for this experience to be over. Shortly after, we arrived back at Flipside Adventures in Ha Giang for our final night.
This was where we had to say goodbye to most of our easy riders, many of whom were starting another loop the next day with a fresh group. After spending days riding together, eating together, drinking together, and navigating the chaos of the loop side by side, it was a sad goodbye complete with lots of hugs and a few tears.
Day 4
In full transparency, my two friends and I had originally booked the two-night, three-day tour, but the night before, somewhere in a happy-water-fuelled haze, we decided to extend to the three-night, four-day option. The team at Flipside made it incredibly easy, and we were so thankful we changed our plans, because otherwise, we would’ve missed out on a very memorable final day.
On day four, we ditched the bikes and piled into Jeeps, starting with a numbing but refreshing cold plunge at a nearby waterfall before heading to a cave with a secret swimming hole inside it. We finished the day visiting some of our easy riders’ family homes for tea and lunch – a very special way to wrap up the trip after bonding so closely with them over the past few days. It was a little emotional and very wholesome.
When it was finally time to pack our things and wait for the sleeper bus back to Hanoi, having already said our final goodbyes to the remaining easy riders and the rest of the group we’d spent the better part of a week sharing this once-in-a-lifetime adventure with, the moment felt incredibly bittersweet.
Final thoughts
Was it worth it? Without question. Would I do it again? In a heartbeat. I arrived with sky-high expectations, and somehow the Ha Giang Loop and Flipside Adventures surpassed every single one of them.
I can’t praise the easy riders enough – they were exceptional, kept us feeling safe even on the diciest, most intimidating roads, and are a huge part of what makes the experience truly unforgettable. It’s no easy job: long days, constant focus, and time spent away from family, yet their high spirits and positivity never once faltered, carrying from early morning well into the night as they laughed, sang, and shared stories with all of us. The people we met along the way were just as memorable and we still keep in touch, which says it all.
On an unexpected note, there’s also something powerful about how disconnected you become. Beyond picking a playlist or taking the occasional photo, my phone barely left my bag and, for four days, the only real focus was where we were and who we were with. It was grounding in the best way and a lesson in enjoying the present moment.
Overall, it’s hard to articulate just how impactful the experience is, but what I can say is I finally understand why everyone speaks about it with such conviction. So I’ll say the same thing they all said to me: doing the Ha Giang Loop might just be one of the best decisions you make.
Packing tips:
I did the loop in January, which meant it was cold. I lucked out with clear, sunny days, but January can also be wet, so it pays to be prepared.
What to bring:
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Corded earphones: AirPods + motorbike = potentially a bad idea. Corded headphones mean you won’t lose them on the road, and you can change music without fumbling with your phone. Easy to buy cheaply at the markets.
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A scarf or neck warmer: For wind protection and keeping warm.
- Windbreaker or light jacket: Ditto.
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Cash: For happy water at homestays (around 30k dong per night), snacks and drinks during stops, and a tip for your easy rider at the end (generally 500k–1 million dong), amongst other random things you may want to buy along the way.
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Layers: Thermals are your friend. You don’t need a new outfit every day – you’ll likely wear the same riding clothes repeatedly. Bring one or two riding outfits, something comfy for evenings, and pyjamas.
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Sneakers: Practical for riding, walking, and short hikes.
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A small backpack: For the loop itself. Your main luggage stays at the hostel and your backpack will be strapped to the bike and wrapped in plastic.
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A bumbag: Perfect for your phone, wallet, lip balm, sunglasses… really anything you’ll want quick access to during the day since your main backpack isn’t easily accessible during the day.
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A microfibre towel: Lightweight and quick-drying if you plan on swimming.
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Togs: See above.
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Raincoat or poncho: The weather can change fast, so it’s good to have just in case.
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Hair ties: I lost mine on day two and spent far too long detangling my hair each night.
- Sunscreen: Duh!
