Inside Our Editor’s Alpine Escape To The Dolomites
on alpine time
By Kiri Johnston | 6th November 2025By week three of our Europe trip earlier this year – after a packed itinerary and big cities like London, Paris, and Milan, plus a wedding in the South of France for good measure – my fiancé, Will, and I were craving a moment of peace and quiet. We ended on a high in the Dolomites, somewhere we’d talked about visiting for years but never quite made it to. We traded city noise for mountain air, and it might have been the best decision of our entire Europe trip.
We’d always said we’d come back one summer for a hiking trip, and September turned out to be the perfect time: fewer crowds, weather not too hot or too cold, and that lush end-of-summer glow. We started in Val Gardena in the South Tyrol region of Italy, a weirdly perfect blend of Italian, German, and Austrian cultures. The architecture reflected this mix, with houses that looked like they’d been lifted straight from a fairytale.
We stayed at Cendevaves Alpine Silence, which completely lived up to its name. The design was a blend of contemporary alpine minimalism and traditional charm, surrounded by endless green peaks. It felt exclusive, quiet, and deeply connected to nature, where mornings began with crisp mountain air and the sound of cowbells in the distance.
Having a car is essential here. It gives you the freedom to explore on your own, drive between towns, and stop wherever you want to take in the views. We had a little Fiat, which was just perfect for the two of us: easy to park, fun to drive, and made every corner turn better than the last.
From our room, one mountain stood out. When we checked in, the receptionist asked which mountain we wanted to climb first. We pointed at it and said, “That one.” So off we went.
Each day started with a belly full of fruit, crepes, pastries, and coffee before heading out to tackle the mountains with an old-school paper map, our phones, water bottles, cameras, and no real plan other than to walk. We spent most of the day hiking, winding through forests, meadows, waterfalls, and peaks, passing people walking their dogs and exchanging a quick ciao or hallo.
We’d stop at tiny mountain huts for coffee or a slice of apple strudel or fruit tart with fresh whipped cream. Later, we took gondolas up to the higher peaks, stopped for a hearty mountain lunch, maybe a goulash soup or a burger, with an incredible view, then kept going. It was pure magic, grounding and completely energising at the same time.
After a few days, we drove to Cortina d’Ampezzo, which felt completely different – more Italian, polished, and glamorous. The chalets were covered in flowers, every building immaculate, and the town carried an effortless, old-world elegance.
We spent our last night watching the sun dip behind the mountains, sharing a vino, both saying how we couldn’t believe we’d waited this long to come.
The Dolomites are easily one of the most beautiful places I’ve ever been. Everywhere you look feels unreal, with fresh air, soft light, and beauty in every direction. It was a trip that was so good for the soul. I went thinking I’d like it; I left completely obsessed. Next time, I’m going back to ski.
Imagery: @kirijohnston
