Style Trial | The Defiant Duck

Style Trial | The Defiant Duck

This is the kind of soul food you wish your mama made.

By Elizabeth Best | 10th November 2015

When it comes to all-American Southern comfort food, I've been frequently known to turn from a sophisticated gal into a salivating mess. Forget a napkin; slap a bib on me and I’m good to go. So it was only appropriate that this little black duck visit The Defiant Duck at Gasworks Plaza in Newstead, on opening day to try their home-style soul food: cutlery optional.

Despite being called The Defiant Duck, there's no duck in sight on this menu. And though the food here is well and truly of the Deep South – think buffalo wings, mini corn dogs and pulled pork burgers – the culinary presentation and restaurant atmosphere is much more schmick and stylish for the Brisbane scene. Don't get me wrong... The vibe’s not fancy pants; it's still relaxed, but it’s classy, smart-casual and there’s not a bib in sight. I vowed to try not to get rib sauce all over my face. But this was one promise I was bound to break.

The Coca-Cola beef ribs were so melt-in-your-mouth, fall-off-the-bone delicious that, despite using a knife and fork like a civilised lady, I still ended up with sauce everywhere. But I didn’t care, because they were that goddamn delicious.

Defiant Duck Mac and Cheese

The mac and cheese croquettes. Sinful.

Mac and cheese is a must at any good soul food kitchen but these guys make it next-level by crumbing it croquette-style. On breaking them open, the soft, gooey cheese oozed onto the plate and you just knew it would taste positively sinful. Sorry waist, looks like you'll have a bit of extra padding this season.

American joints aren’t usually known for salads but, surprisingly, the Super Bowl Salad was the perfect accompaniment to the heavier ribs, and was incredibly visually appealing to boot. Light and zesty, the combination of the kale, basil, mint and beetroot really complemented the heartier dishes.

Defiant duck Mighty duck sundae

The Mighty Duck Sundae: GET IN MY BELLY.

And what’s comfort food without a decadent dessert? How about three? My companion and I couldn't decide between the three desserts on the menu so we ordered all of them. The Mighty Duck Sundae – cookie dough ice-cream, shaved chocolate, marshmallow, peanut brittle, pomegranate seeds and cool whip – was indeed mighty and reigned supreme; it was plated so prettily I felt bad messing it up. But not so bad I couldn’t wolf it all down.

The Defiant Duck
3/84 Longland Street, Newstead
p 3252 1581

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Article by Elizabeth Best

Elizabeth is the former Digital Editor of Style Magazines. She knew she wanted to be a journalist from the age of six and has spent the past decade working for some of Australia's top publications. She also thinks mint chocolate is a gift straight from the heavens.

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