Meet Three Australian Fashion Designers Leading The New Guard
Ones to watch
By Kiri Johnston | 24th June 2026Australian fashion is entering a confident new chapter. Across the country, designers are building brands with distinct identities, considered collections and an increasingly global outlook.
While Australia has long produced internationally recognised fashion names, a new generation is adding something different to the conversation. There’s less interest in chasing the cycle and more emphasis on longevity, individuality and creating clothes that hold relevance beyond a single season.
From Courtney Zheng’s subversive approach to femininity to Marina Afonina’s enduring vision for ALBUS LUMEN and Charlotte Hicks’ considered wardrobe at ESSE Studios, these are three Australian fashion designers worth knowing.
Courtney Zheng
While many designers reference cool, Courtney Zheng’s world is effortlessly connected to it.
Since launching her namesake label in 2023, the Sydney-based designer has steadily built a loyal following through sculptural silhouettes, thoughtful detailing and a modern approach to femininity.
Zheng is part of a generation of independent Australian designers developing highly personal visual languages of their own, and this year marked an important milestone for the brand with its first standalone runway presentation.
Courtney Zheng. Photographed by Joe Brennan.
Titled Beauty as Resistance, the collection celebrated artists, musicians, dancers and creative outsiders – the people who shape culture rather than follow it. The premise reflected Zheng’s approach to design, grounded in individuality, self-expression and authenticity.
There was a deliberate tension throughout the collection. Sharp tailoring and occasion dressing sat alongside distressed finishes, worn-in denim, moto influences and vintage-inspired band tees. Romanticism collided with rebellion, resulting in pieces that felt polished without becoming precious.
Behind the aesthetic is a family history deeply rooted in textiles and garment making. Zheng approaches fashion with technical precision and emotional depth, creating meticulous collections that still leave room for the personality of the wearer.
As her label continues to grow, Courtney Zheng represents an independent new guard with the potential to take Australian fashion well beyond our shores.
Runway photography by Lucas Dawson.
ALBUS LUMEN
More than a decade after launching ALBUS LUMEN, founder Marina Afonina continues to make a compelling argument for a quieter form of Australian luxury.
Built on authenticity, craftsmanship and thoughtful design, ALBUS LUMEN has developed an identity that stands apart from fashion’s constant churn.
For Resort ’27, Afonina explored the space between two worlds, balancing the restraint of ’90s minimalism with moments of glamour and expression.
Marina Afonina. Photographed by Vlad Mendigorin.
Crisp shirting, relaxed tailoring and the brand’s signature nylon fabrications formed the foundation, while silk organza, amplified proportions and shimmering sequined textures brought lightness and movement.
Yet even at its most elevated, the collection remained grounded in one of ALBUS LUMEN’s greatest strengths: understanding how women actually dress.
The pieces are made to move through modern life, from a busy city and a long-haul flight to dinner by the water. Wearability, ease and understated confidence remain central to the brand.
Afonina’s current outlook extends beyond clothing, too. She describes the art of being present as a luxury in itself – a sentiment reflected in both her personal style, anchored by the perfect pair of white denim, and her broader vision for ALBUS LUMEN.
As Australian designers continue to gain international attention, the label is proof that luxury doesn’t need to be loud to leave a lasting impression.
ESSE Studios
At a time when much of the fashion industry continues to operate at speed, ESSE Studios is taking the opposite approach.
Founded by Charlotte Hicks, the Australian fashion label is committed to a slower, more deliberate wardrobe built around pieces intended to last.
Charlotte Hicks. Photographed by Daniel Hanslow.
Presented at Sydney’s Museum of Contemporary Art, The ESSE Editions continued the brand’s exploration of purposeful dressing through sculptural tailoring, elongated silhouettes and refined wardrobe foundations.
Originally founded around the concept of wardrobe essentials, ESSE Studios has developed into something more nuanced: a complete wardrobe system centred on permanence, functionality and considered design.
That commitment extends to how its clothing is made. Today, 98 per cent of ESSE Studios garments are produced locally in Sydney through a network of specialised makers and artisans – an increasingly rare approach within contemporary fashion.
Hicks also sees a growing confidence among Australian designers, driven by stronger creative identities and increasing global relevance.
What interests her is substance over noise: designers and creators building complete worlds around their work instead of simply producing more product.
That thinking is evident throughout ESSE Studios. Like the black coat or blazer Hicks describes as her “armour”, the collections are intended to move with women through different chapters of their lives.
In an industry constantly encouraging newness, ESSE Studios instead makes the case for fewer, better pieces that become enduring parts of a wardrobe.
Runway photography by Lucas Dawson.
The future of Australian fashion
Courtney Zheng, ALBUS LUMEN and ESSE Studios may approach fashion differently, but there is common ground between them.
Each has established a recognisable point of view without relying on the constant pursuit of trends. There is confidence in restraint, individuality and knowing exactly what their respective brands stand for.
Together, they point towards an Australian fashion industry becoming increasingly assured in its own identity – and one with plenty to contribute to the global conversation.
